If your home has limited closet space, or even worse, NO closet, then a DIY Wardrobe closet may be the perfect option for you! A DIY solution is substantially less inexpensive and allows for complete customization of size, look and storage options. It’s also much easier to build than you might think!
It’s week three of the One Room Challenge (aka the ORC), hosted by Calling it Home – A six-week event that challenges those of us with a love of design to transform a room in just six weeks. It’s a blissfully crazy time but one of my favorite things to do!
Wanna catch up on the progress? It’s all right here!
Wanna catch up on the progress? It’s all right here!
In week one I shared the plan to transform our daughter’s room into a Glam Bohemian dream, with a slight edge, full of gray and silver tones mixed with soft pastels. You can check out the whole design plan and the rest of the nasty before pictures HERE.
Last week I shared with you the new teeny unuseable closet turned closet bed nook. The bed nook gives us so much more usable space, but we had to lose the closet to gain that space! A teen girl without a closet is a bit like a world without air. But a teen girl with this crazy – that’s just as bad!
Coming up with a plan was a bit challenging. I knew all along that I was going to want to add a standalone wardrobe closet, but I didn’t know what that was going to look like.
I explored various options, including the PAX system from IKEA, but they were either too small, too large, or too expensive. I’m starting to sound like Goldilocks and the three bears – Let’s say a DIY wardrobe solution for this room was not too small, too large but just right!
How to make a wardrobe closet from scratch
Step one was to measure, measure, and measure. We’d talked about the room dimension issues in week one, but the long and short is that I had one location in the room to place the closet – that makes things easy when needing to make decisions!
Once I had my dimensions, I went on to Easyclosets.com to design my solution. They have a great tool that allows you to plan custom closets and it’s free! They aren’t paying me for this promotion, I just use their tool ALL the time (tiny closets are not a yay kinda thing). Once I put in the dimensions, I played around with the design, adding components such as shoe storage and drawers, before I came up with something that fit our needs. I finally decided on a closet with three columns – one with a single rod (for long clothing) and shoe storage, a drawer bank and a third with two rods. Next up, find some building plans!
For the building plans, I visited AnaWhite.com – everyone knows Ana has the BEST ideas for free and of course, she had something on her site that was workable – the Industrial Style Wood Slat closet system. I pretty much followed her plans verbatim but adapted it to our needs. The main modification I made was adding a center column of drawers. Having a built-in drawer tower means I can remove the existing dresser in the room, hence giving even more usable space. With the plans figured out, it was time to get to work. The other modification I made was to add cross supports to the bottom and top of each support tower. This allowed me to secure the unit to the wall and floor for a built-in look.
Using Common Wood
Using common wood helped to keep the costs down to reasonable – was able to build the entire unit for around $150, minus the doors – but meant a little more sanding and prep work. I often use common boards for parts of a piece that isn’t visible, such as the inside of a closet, and splurge on trim work. If you’re using common boards, do your best to check each board for straightness and fill any knotholes with wood filler. I started off giving all of the wood a good sanding, then built the framework for all three columns.
The Drawer Column
Before securing any of the columns to the wall, I completed the drawer column so I could move the center if needed. I’d decided on a depth of 18″ for my closet and as luck would have it, found wooden crates at Home Depot with the perfect dimension to accommodate that depth – score!
At $11 a piece and ball-bearing drawer slides, using the containers was time-saving, economical and functional. I built the supports from the bottom up, adding cross supports at the location of each drawer.
The closet columns
The plans from Easyclosets.com helped to determine the placements for the closet rods in both of the more prominent units.
In the closet section with the single rod, I added four half-shelves for shoes, allowing for better viewing of the shoes when stacked.
To help the finished closet blend in with the room I painted the exterior and the columns the same muted gray as the rest of the room, while staining the shelves a warm walnut color. Finally, I secured the entire unit to the back wall, floor and ceiling. 1″x6″ boards act as a kickboard.
Left to Do
Ugh, I hate having to say that this is “mostly” done but I still have to add the trim pieces back in and make mirrored doors – that’s next on my list. Although we could leave the closet open, I want to hide the eventual and inevitable clutter. Once I’ve got the doors on, I’ll drop by and update this post! Although it’s mostly done and not done, done, I’m going to go ahead and cross the closet off of the TODO list.
Create space for a larger bed
Include additional closet space
Provide well-lit make-up vanity
Add Sitting/hangout area
Still, I’m happy to say that the wardrobe closet is mostly done!
Eeek! There are still more than a few things to get done, and we’re halfway through the challenge! I better get my butt moving! Be sure to pop in next week for hopefully the latest updates on this room. If you are looking for me, you know where I’ll be! In the meantime, be sure to check out the other guest participants in the One Room Challenge and prepared to be wowed! There is much inspiration going on over there!
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Got tools? Need builtins? Build these custom eclectic modern wall bookshelves over the weekend for less than $150 – They are the perfect project for a beginner woodworker!
I recently completed a Living Room makeover for the $100 Room Challenge where I shared all kinds of DIY projects for under $100. Storage is essential in this room. We spend a great deal of time in here as a family with a variety of activities. Before the make-over, we had bookcases that held what we needed, but they weren’t exactly easy on the eyes – They were too narrow, too short, and just plain ugly.
I found a unit at West Elm, and was instantly smitten, with a perfect shelving design that hit all of the marks: eclectic modern, with a touch of mid-century, light, airy, and not at all ugly! The one mark it didn’t hit was budget or size.
So, I dusted off my saw, hit up one of my favorite people in the whole world, April at Uncookiecutter.com, and got busy designing a custom, cheap, easy-to-build solution, using plywood. April is so crazy talented that I knew if anyone could figure out how to build these plans, it would be her! We wanted to mimic the metal supports on the original. To do so, we painted 1″x4″s in a faux metal finish. If you’re interested in subscribing to my monthly newsletter, you can download a tutorial on how I painted the faux metal here!
These wall shelves are simple enough that someone with a basic knowledge of tools and building can make them in a weekend and should cost you about $140 for materials.
You will need a few tools though and of course, the plans. You can get them HERE.
Note: I have 8′ ceilings with crown molding. The shelves as suggested will fit directly under the crown. The plans base the center shelf width on the width of my door frame – be sure to measure your ceiling and doorframe, then adjust the plans accordingly.
Ready? Let’s get started making custom wall shelves for your room!
Build Custom Wall Bookshelves
*This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through a link, I receive a small commission at no expense to you. Thanks for supporting KnockitOff Kim!
Tip on choosing wood: To keep costs down I used regular plywood and as much “common” wood as possible. To make it easier on myself, I used pre-primed trim boards for the open towers of each shelf unit – these are usually much straighter and they are already sanded and primed, which cut down significantly on time!
Cut your plywood or better yet, have your hardware store cut it for you. Be sure to ask them to check for accuracy. Having them make your cuts will save you so much time and effort!
Use your reciprocating saw to notch out the bottom of the 10″ vertical side pieces to ensure the unit will go over the baseboard and lay flush with the wall.
Sand any rough edges from all pieces.
Prepare your Wall
Measure the location for your open towers on the wall and remove a 4.5″ section of baseboard with your reciprocating saw where the open tower will stand, to ensure a proper fit. Remove a 1.25″ piece of 1/4 round from the area beside your doorframe on either side.
Drill Shelf pin Holes
Measure from the bottom of each 10″x 92.5″ vertical piece and the 4-1×4 pieces, marking your pin holes using the measures outlined in the plans.
To make fast work of adding the marks, I laid the boards out and I used a drywall t-square with a measuring tape to mark the hole location across all boards at the same time starting from the bottom.
Check for pinhole level against each piece. I found it easiest to stand all six pieces upright and place a level across all panels at the center of each pinhole mark. Adjust marks where necessary before drilling.
Use a Kreg jig pin holer to drill shelf-pin holes.
If you don’t have a pin hole jig – I somehow lost mine during this project – you will need a drill stop to ensure you only make an indentation rather than a hole straight through. You can make one by stacking two- 2×4 scraps together and drilling a hole through the center using a 3/8″ drill bit. Center your drill stop over the pinhole marks and use a 1/4″(6.15mm) drill bit to drill the hole.
Add Pocket Holes
Drill three-quarter inch pocket holes on one end of each of the smaller shelf pieces.
Add pocket holes to the eight-1″x4″ shelf supports.
Measure the distance from your ceiling to the top of the door trim you will be framing. Use this measurement for the top support to ensure that the shelves across the entire unit are level. My door frame sat at 9 15/16″ from the bottom of the crown molding – that is where I placed my top shelf support.
Stain and Paint the Pieces
Stain all shelves and the 10″ vertical side pieces in the stain of hope your choice. I’ve included the stain colors I used on my shelf in the supply list.
Paint your 1×4 sides as well as shelf supports. To simulate a metal finish as I did, download this guide I created for my newsletter subscribers!
Assemble the Open Tower
Use a framing square and clamps to assemble the long 1″x4″ piece and two of the 1″x4″ braces into a rectangle. Add two 1″x4″ center shelf supports, pocket holes facing up, using pocket hole screws and wood glue as outlined by the plans and the measurement you took above for the top support. I also added a third support and stationary shelf on the bottom to ensure I could secure the entire shelf properly to my baseboards. attach the open frame to the wall with a pin nailer to hold it in place. You will reinforce this at a later step.
Mark location of Shelves
Prepare to add the shelves by leveling them first on each side. To do this, Lean the solid side in place against the frame. Run each shelf through the open tower support and level against the 10″ vertical piece. Mark the location underneath with a pencil where the two parts meet.
Lay the 10″ vertical side down on the ground and attach a small shelf with pocket holes facing down at each marked line from the previous step. Attach a shelf support (1″x2″) under the shelf with a brad nailer and glue hiding the pocket holes.
Assemble Full Tower
Stand the 10″ vertical side up, and align on the wall. Connect the open tower and the vertical side by running the shelves through open tower shelf supports. Check for level then use the brad nailer to secure all shelves to all supports.
Build Second Tower
Repeat steps above (Assemble the Open Tower through Assemble Full Tower) to build the second tower.
Add Center Support Shelf
Attach 1×2 supports in line with your doorframe on the outside of each tower to support the center shelf. Slide the center shelf into place, on top of the supports and door frame, with pocket holes facing up, and use pocket hole screws to secure into a stud location. Secure to supports and door frame with brad nails.
Secure to the wall
Use the brad nailer to secure the 10″ vertical side to the door frame. Use 2 1/2″ screws to secure the open tower on both sides to the wall or trim.
Add Adjustable Shelves
Insert shelf brackets into the shelf pin holes on all four points. Slide a shelf into place on rest on top of supports. Secure shelf brackets with a 3/4″ wood screw to the bottom of each shelf.
Touch up any stain or paint as needed. Apply a thin coat of finishing wax.
Stand back and congratulate yourself, Master-builder! You did it!
Electic modern style, with a touch of mid-century, light, airy, within budget and not at all ugly! I’d say this wall shelving unit is exactly what this space needed!
If you’ve been following along on Instagram, you’ll know that I’m doing my best to keep up with a super-talented group of woodworking bloggers to bring you13 days of DIY woodworking projects. Our gift to you – free build plans and a giveaway for $300 worth of tools! Refer to this post for instructions on how to enter, and while you are there, take a moment to check out all of the projects – the projects are out of this world!
a printed copy (print on 8″x11.5″ paper) of this template, pieces cut out
tealight candles (3)
Although you can make the bases any height, I’m going to be sharing the sizes I made. To change this, just make sure all sides of your eventual triangle are equal.
Make the bases:
My bases are 5.5″, 7.5″ and 9.5″ tall and were cut from the 1″ x 6″ board.
Step 1: Begin by cutting (3) boards from the 1″ x 6″ to your desired height for each base. Step 2: Set your miter or table saw to 30˚. Trim the sides of each base piece to 30˚. Step 3: Using the provided template, cut the center triangle (piece A) from 1×6. This piece will be used to hold the tealight candle. Step 4: Arrange the pieces, matching the edges by overlapping on each end, around the center triangle, ensuring proper fit, and that the center drops down 1/4″ from the top edge. Step 5: Glue together using a thin yet generous smear along connecting edge and secure with a brad nailer, ensuring the pieces are pressed tightly together. Wipe off any excess glue. Fill brad nail holes with wood filler. Step 6: Let glue and wood filler dry, then sand the base smooth to 220 grit. Repeat for all three bases, then paint the tallest base and half of the middle base in black.
Step 7: Cut the required pieces (pieces b – g) as outlined in the template from the lattice strips and print out a copy of the Embellishment Layout.Step 8: Paint 6 of piece b and 3 of piece c in black. Step 9: Assemble using glue (and brad nails where needed) as outlined in the Embellishment Layout. Step 9: Fill any holes with wood filler. Step 10: Sand any rough areas in embellishments and apply a clear polyurethane over the candles holders. Let dry. Step 11: Add candles. Make merry and enjoy!
I hope you’ll give this project a try! If you have any questions, let me know by leaving a comment below.
These candle holders would make a great gift idea this Christmas and fit nicely into a wide variety of decor styles. #onegiftdownamilliontogo
Thanks for stopping by! I’m off to tackle my gift list – wish me luck!